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Floor Levelling
Author:
A.Jeffers
Date Written:
14-Oct-07
Copyright © 2006 www.click4bathrooms.com
With regard to floor levelling, there are a number of approaches one may take, from the very simple to the more adventurous. For severely uneven floors, makeshift steel or wooden frames may be constructed and covered with horizontal panels or boards. To illustrate this, think of a lever-arch file. When placed on a level surface, the overall result is a 3-dimensional triangle. If the floor level was as uneven as that (at an approximately 45º angle) then placing another file of the same dimensions on top of the first file results in an overall level surface. This is the principle I have in mind when describing corrective frames. Fortunately, most floors are not at such a severe incline, so this approach would only apply to cases of deep holes and recesses.
Another approach to making an uneven surface level would be to fill any holes with concrete, but this is not possible in most domestic homes where the bathroom is typically on the first floor. The lower floor ceiling of most domestic dwellings simply would not support the weight of poured concrete. In this case, floor boarding would be the likely means of repairing or covering holes and recesses. This would also be the most economic and hassle free option.
For uneven, scarred and chipped surfaces, a filler or floor-levelling compound would be the sensible option.
Floor Levelling Compounds
Floor levelling compounds are generally a blend of specially graded fillers, fine cements and polymers, specially developed for smoothing and levelling internal floors, prior to the application of surface decoration i.e. floor tiles or paint. Most floor levelling compounds are suitable for use on all common building substrates such as concrete, sand, cement, screeds, floor grade asphalt and tile.
Preparation of Sub-floor
The floor surface to which the levelling compound is to be applied must be clean, firm, dry, free of dust, dirt, oil and grease and any other contaminating materials. Flaking or peeling layers should be removed before application. The substrate must be strong enough to support the weight of the compound.
To ensure consistent drying rates and to reduce water penetration, porous floor surfaces should be primed using a suitable primer. Most primers are easy to apply using a brush, roller or spray. This will help prevent water penetration and will increase bond strength.
Floor Surface Considerations
Cement and sand screeds, anhydrite screeds (anhydrite is a mineral which when mixed with water forms gypsum) and concrete surfaces must be fully cured before the application of a floor-levelling compound. Concrete will normally have cured in typical domestic dwellings, but in the case of new buildings and homes, concrete floors should be given ample time to set. On that note, new buildings and homes should be constructed with level floors anyway.
Existing tiles should be checked for firm bonding. All hollow and defective tiles must be cut out and replaced. Applying a floor-levelling compound to a floor with loose tiles/sections would be a waste of time, because when put under stress, the levelling compound will suffer the same uneven, fractured texture as the original floor to which it has been applied.
Asphalt surfaces must be in sound condition and have adequate cohesive strength, but there is no requirement to prime them, as they are already waterproof. I am no expert on asphalt, but make sure you are applying the floor-levelling compound to floor/paving grade asphalt. This will ensure it is strong enough. For those who are interested, asphalt is a sticky, black and highly viscous liquid or semi-solid, commonly referred to as bitumen.
